American watchmaking has a rich history that once positioned the U.S. as a global leader in precision timekeeping. In the 19th century, brands like Waltham Watch Company, founded in 1850, revolutionized the industry with mass production techniques and interchangeable parts, most notably seen in the 1857 Model Waltham Watch. Soon after, companies such as Elgin National Watch Company and Hamilton carried the momentum into the early 20th century, making American timepieces essential for railroad workers and everyday citizens alike.
But as the decades passed, the tides turned. Following World War II, Swiss brands like Rolex and Omega gained prestige, while Japanese manufacturers like Seiko and Citizen delivered affordability and innovation. The devastating Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s forced many American brands to close their doors. Even groundbreaking attempts like Bulova’s Accutron couldn’t keep up with the rise of quartz powered watches, and the U.S. industry dwindled in the face of globalization and rising domestic manufacturing costs.
The American Watchmaking Renaissance
In recent years, a new generation of American watchmakers has sparked a revival, blending tradition, innovation, and a commitment to craftsmanship. Brands such as RGM Watches, Shinola, J.N. Shapiro, and Cornell Watch Company are at the forefront of this exciting resurgence.
We sat down with the founders of J.N. Shapiro, RGM, and Cornell to explore what’s driving the rebirth of American watchmaking and to get a first look at their standout designs for 2025.
J.N. Shapiro: The Art of Guilloché Meets American Grit
Josh Shapiro didn’t follow a traditional path into horology. A former history teacher with deep roots in machine work, Shapiro launched J.N. Shapiro in 2018 after crafting engine turned dials for other watchmakers. His first full collection, the Infinity Series, set a new benchmark for American made dress watches.
By 2020, Shapiro had moved into a dedicated workshop in California, where he continues to produce in house calibers and his signature hand cut Infinity weave guilloché dials. His latest release, the Infinity Pure 37mm, combines vintage elegance with modern proportions, offering collectors a refined piece that wears comfortably on any wrist.
“The biggest challenge is our lack of a skilled watchmaking labor force. To qualify as ‘Made in the USA,’ nearly everything must be produced here. That’s a higher standard than the Swiss ‘Swiss Made’ label,” says Shapiro.
Despite the hurdles, Shapiro’s watches have captivated high end collectors. Priced at $26,000, the Infinity Pure is a more accessible entry into his catalog, retaining the masterful detail and timeless charm that defines the brand.
RGM Watches: The Godfather of the Modern U.S. Watch Revival
Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, RGM Watches has become a cornerstone of American horology. Based in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, RGM is one of the few companies producing in house mechanical movements in the United States.
Murphy, trained both domestically and at Switzerland’s prestigious WOSTEP school, understands the challenges firsthand. “Finding and keeping skilled watchmakers is imperative,” he explains. “We’ll always be boutique, not industrial, but that’s where the beauty lies.”
The Pennsylvania Tourbillon, priced at $125,000, remains the first and only serially produced American made tourbillon, while the recently released 801/40 CE appeals to those seeking smaller, hand finished timepieces with the luster of grand feu enamel dials.
RGM continues to balance tradition with innovation, crafting everything from rugged divers to heirloom quality dress watches, all powered by American precision.
Cornell Watch Company: A 150 Year Comeback
First founded in Chicago in 1870, the original Cornell Watch Company was short-lived due to the Great Chicago Fire. But in 2024, Chicago collector John Warren, with help from RGM’s Roland Murphy, brought the brand back to life. The initial Cornell 1870 C.E. watch paid tribute to the company’s heritage and American pocket watches.
Now, in 2025, Cornell has launched the Lozier, a minimalist yet meticulously crafted wristwatch that echoes both Art Deco elegance and American railroad traditions. While powered by a Swiss Sellita SW300 movement, nearly everything else from the case and crown to the dial and hands is made in Columbus, Ohio, using Kern 5 axis CNC machines.
“The real challenge isn’t just manufacturing—it’s educating customers,” Warren notes. “People assume American watchmaking is more expensive. It’s not. It’s just that we don’t cut corners on quality.”
At 37.4mm, the Lozier is a refined, everyday watch designed for those who appreciate timeless aesthetics and American ingenuity.
Why American Watches Matter
The revival of U.S. watchmaking is more than nostalgia. It’s about reclaiming a lost legacy of craftsmanship, precision, and innovation. These brands aren’t just copying Swiss standards. They’re setting new ones with vertically integrated production and meticulous attention to detail.
As more collectors seek uniquely American stories, handcrafted quality, and ethical manufacturing, brands like J.N. Shapiro, RGM, and Cornell are leading the way forward.
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