Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM Review

The Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration is one of the most distinctive luxury watch releases in recent years. By partnering with American designer Matthew Williams, founder of the influential fashion label 1017 ALYX 9SM, Audemars Piguet has created a collection that blends contemporary design with centuries of Swiss watchmaking expertise.

Rather than simply introducing a new dial color or limited edition engraving, the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection completely reimagines the iconic Royal Oak aesthetic. The result is a series of minimalist timepieces that celebrate craftsmanship, precious metals, and mechanical excellence without unnecessary distractions.

Headlining the collection are the Royal Oak Selfwinding 15550BA.OO.1356BA.02 and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01, along with two Royal Oak Offshore models available in yellow and white gold. Together, these watches represent one of the boldest collaborations in the history of the Royal Oak.

What Is the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM Collection?

The Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration was developed alongside Matthew Williams, whose fashion label has become synonymous with modern luxury, industrial inspired design, and refined minimalism. Williams approached the Royal Oak with a clear vision: remove visual clutter while preserving everything that makes the watch iconic.

Instead of adding decorative elements, the collaboration focuses on subtraction. Traditional hour markers, date windows, and even chronograph registers disappear, allowing the finishing of the gold dials to become the centerpiece.

This design philosophy perfectly aligns with both brands. Audemars Piguet is known for exceptional finishing and technical innovation, while 1017 ALYX 9SM has earned a reputation for clean, architectural design that emphasizes materials and craftsmanship.

The result is a luxury watch collection unlike anything previously released by Audemars Piguet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM 15550BA.OO.1356BA.02

The centerpiece of the collaboration is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM 15550BA.OO.1356BA.02, a refined 37mm timepiece crafted entirely from 18K yellow gold.

Specifications

• Reference: 15550BA.OO.1356BA.02

• Case Size: 37mm

• Material: 18K Yellow Gold

• Movement: Calibre 5909

• Power Reserve: 60 Hours

• Water Resistance: 50 meters

• Bracelet: Integrated 18K Yellow Gold Royal Oak Bracelet

Unlike a traditional Royal Oak, this model features an uninterrupted vertically satin finished gold dial. The familiar applied hour markers have been removed entirely, while the date display has also been eliminated.

Only two names appear on the dial:

• Audemars Piguet

• 1017 ALYX 9SM

The clean layout immediately draws attention to the incredible finishing that has become one of Audemars Piguet's trademarks.

Why the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM Dial Is So Unique

Most luxury sports watches emphasize complexity. The Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection does exactly the opposite.

Without traditional indexes or additional complications interrupting the surface, light flows continuously across the vertically brushed gold dial. Every angle creates a different reflection, transforming the watch depending on the lighting conditions.

The matching yellow gold hands are filled with luminous material to maintain excellent legibility while preserving the monochromatic appearance that defines the collection.

It is one of the cleanest Royal Oak dials ever produced.

Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01

Collectors looking for additional functionality will appreciate the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM Royal Oak Chronograph 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01.

Specifications

• Reference: 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01

• Case Size: 41mm

• Material: 18K Yellow Gold

• Movement: Calibre 4409

• Flyback Chronograph

• Sapphire Caseback

• Integrated Royal Oak Bracelet

At first glance, many enthusiasts may not even recognize this watch as a chronograph.

That's because Matthew Williams removed the traditional subdials that typically display elapsed minutes and hours. Instead, the chronograph hands sweep across the uninterrupted gold dial, creating one of the most unconventional chronograph layouts ever introduced by Audemars Piguet.

Despite its simplified appearance, the watch remains every bit as capable as a traditional Royal Oak Chronograph.

The Calibre 4409 Movement

Powering the chronograph is Audemars Piguet's impressive in house Calibre 4409.

Key features include:

• Integrated flyback chronograph

• Column wheel construction

• Vertical clutch mechanism

• Automatic winding

• Exhibition sapphire caseback

• Exceptional hand finishing

The flyback function allows the wearer to instantly reset and restart the chronograph with a single press, making it ideal for consecutive timing events while showcasing Audemars Piguet's mechanical expertise.

Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM Models

The Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration also extends to the Royal Oak Offshore collection.

Available in both 18K yellow gold and 18K white gold, these 42mm models maintain the same minimalist design language while adding the bold proportions that define the Offshore family.

Like the standard Royal Oak editions, these watches eliminate most dial elements to create an exceptionally clean aesthetic.

Each model also includes an additional black rubber strap that can be swapped quickly using Audemars Piguet's quick change strap system, allowing owners to switch effortlessly between sporty and luxurious styles.

Premium Craftsmanship Throughout

Every watch in the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection showcases the extraordinary finishing for which the manufacture is famous.

Highlights include:

• Vertically satin brushed gold dials

• Hand polished bevels

• Brushed and polished Royal Oak bracelets

• Signature octagonal bezel

• Sapphire exhibition caseback

• Special 22K gold oscillating weight

The custom rotor features both the Audemars Piguet branding and the 1017 ALYX 9SM logo, creating a subtle yet meaningful tribute to the collaboration.

Why the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM Collection Is So Collectible

Limited edition Royal Oak models have consistently attracted strong interest from collectors, but this collaboration stands apart for several reasons.

Unlike many luxury collaborations that simply introduce cosmetic updates, the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection fundamentally rethinks the visual identity of the Royal Oak while preserving its legendary case design, integrated bracelet, and exceptional mechanical movements.

Collectors are drawn to several characteristics:

A Completely New Design Language

The minimalist approach creates a Royal Oak unlike any previous reference.

Limited Production

Scarcity continues to drive demand among collectors worldwide.

Precious Metal Construction

Every watch in the collection is crafted from solid 18K gold.

Outstanding Movements

Both the Calibre 5909 and Calibre 4409 represent some of Audemars Piguet's finest modern mechanical movements.

Fashion Meets Haute Horlogerie

The collaboration successfully bridges luxury fashion and traditional Swiss watchmaking without compromising either discipline.

Is the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM a Good Investment?

Although luxury watches should primarily be purchased for enjoyment, the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection has many characteristics collectors typically seek.

Factors supporting long term desirability include:

• Limited production numbers

• Collaboration with internationally recognized designer Matthew Williams

• Solid 18K gold construction

• Unique minimalist aesthetic

• In house Audemars Piguet movements

• Strong worldwide demand for Royal Oak models

• One of the most original Royal Oak collaborations ever produced

Because these watches differ so dramatically from the standard Royal Oak lineup, they occupy a unique position within modern Audemars Piguet history.

Final Thoughts

The Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration proves that thoughtful minimalism can be just as impactful as technical complexity. By removing familiar design elements rather than adding more, Matthew Williams and Audemars Piguet have created one of the most visually striking Royal Oak collections ever produced.

Whether you choose the elegant Royal Oak Selfwinding 15550BA.OO.1356BA.02, the innovative Royal Oak Chronograph 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01, or one of the Royal Oak Offshore editions, each watch showcases the perfect balance of modern design, exceptional finishing, and world class Swiss craftsmanship. For collectors seeking a rare and highly distinctive Royal Oak, the Audemars Piguet 1017 ALYX 9SM collection is destined to remain one of the defining collaborations of the decade.

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